Between June 2023 and May 2024, I embarked on the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage, a journey that led me through the mountain tops, capes, rivers, and valleys of Shikoku Island in Japan. This path, known as the O-henro, is one of the most sacred pilgrimages in Japan, following in the footsteps of the revered Buddhist monk Kukai. The journey was filled with beauty, challenges, and deep reflection, stretching me physically, mentally, and spiritually.
The pilgrimage was not without its dangers—losing the path in the wilderness, slipping on ancient stone stairs, and braving storms that drenched the land and my spirit alike. The unpredictability of the journey often left me walking into the night, where darkness added another layer of challenge. Yet, it was precisely these moments that brought me face-to-face with the concept of impermanence, a cornerstone of Buddhist philosophy.Impermanence—the ever-changing nature of life—was a theme that echoed throughout my pilgrimage. Every step on this journey made me question the attachments and obstacles that prevent us from being truly present and fully alive. Each challenge forced me to let go of control and embrace the unfolding path with acceptance, a lesson that transcends the pilgrimage itself and touches on the essence of living.The pilgrimage is deeply connected with the spirit of Kukai, also known as Kobo-Daishi. Kukai was a Buddhist monk, scholar, and founder of the Shingon sect of Buddhism in Japan. He is believed to accompany pilgrims on their journey, symbolized by the walking stick (kongozue) and straw hat (sugegasa) that many pilgrims carry. These symbols serve as a reminder that Kukai walks with them, offering guidance and protection. His teachings and compassionate spirit continue to inspire countless people, making the pilgrimage not just a physical journey, but a spiritual one.For me, visiting Koya-san was a culmination of this sacred journey. Koya-san, located in Wakayama Prefecture, is the heart of Shingon Buddhism and the final resting place of Kukai. The mountain is home to Okuno-in, Japan’s largest cemetery, where Kukai is said to be in eternal meditation. It is a place of profound spiritual significance, where pilgrims from all over the world come to pay their respects.
In late July, just days before I was granted Japanese citizenship, I had the opportunity to visit Koya-san. This visit felt like a full circle—paying tribute to and offering my gratitude to Kukai, who did so much for the people of Japan, offering hope and prayers for their well-being. As I walked through Okuno-in at night, the atmosphere was both mysterious and enchanting, with towering cedars and ancient tombstones. In the morning, the cemetery took on a different charm, with the soft light of dawn casting a serene glow over the landscape.
The final stream and bridge within Okuno-in felt like an invitation to cross to "the other shore." In Buddhist thought, "the other shore" is a metaphor for enlightenment or liberation—an inner state where one is free from the cycle of suffering and delusion that defines much of human experience. It represents a profound shift in understanding and awareness, where one moves beyond the limitations of ordinary perception to a deeper connection with the true nature of reality. This idea of "crossing over" is a universal metaphor that resonates with the human journey toward greater understanding and peace, regardless of religious or spiritual beliefs.
The Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage and my trip to Koya-san was a magical and sobering journey. It was a passage through landscapes, emotions, and hopefully, spiritual growth that I will carry with me always. As I completed this pilgrimage, I realized that the journey had brought me full circle.
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